APRIL BIRTHSTONES
DIAMONDS
The word “diamond” comes from the Greek word “adamas” meaning ‘unconquerable’, ‘indestructible’, ‘invincible’, or ‘unbreakable’.
Diamond gets its color from nitrogen, boron, hydrogen, natural radiation, and crystal distortion. Diamonds have a color range that includes colorless, yellow, brown, gray, green, blue, pink, red, orange, violet, and black. Before an industry standard the terms “river or water” were used to describe the most colorless diamonds and the term “Cape” to describe pale yellow diamonds. Diamonds that are colorless or pale blue are rare and sought after. Most gem diamonds are tinged with yellow. Most industrial diamonds are gray or brown. Today, the most sought-after color of Diamond is the rare natural red diamond and the canary yellow diamond. Diamond treatments are heat, irradiation, and color. These treatments are used to improve color and/or clarity. The Moh’s hardness of Diamond is 10. The hardness varies significantly in different directions.
Diamonds can be found in India, Brazil, South Africa, the Democratic Republic of Congo (Zaire), Botswana, Russia, Australia, China, Canada, and the United States of America. Diamonds are found in alluvial gravels, glacial tills, and kimberlite pipes.
In 1912 the National Association of Jeweler’s made Diamond the birthstone for April. It is the stone for the 60th and 75th Wedding Anniversaries. Diamond is associated with the zodiac signs of Aries and Taurus.
Ancient Greeks believed that diamonds were tears from the gods. Ancient Romans believed that diamonds made the wearer invincible, and gave strength and courage when worn during battle. In Europe from 1600 -1750, diamonds were worn to symbolize ultimate wealth and prosperity.
Diamond has historically been a symbol of clarity, strength, love, and marriage. It was said to ward off the evil eye and have healing powers. It was associated with longevity, strength, beauty, happiness, courage, invincibility, commitment, purity, eternity, passion, clarity, wealth, power, love, and protection in battle.
The 4 Cs
The Term 4 Cs was coined in 1939 by Robert Shipley, the founder of GIA, to help his students remember the four factors used to describe a faceted diamond. Richard Liddicoat succeeded Robert Shipley and established GIAs Clarity and Color Scales which are universally utilized.
- Carat Weight:
Originally carob seeds were used as counterweights in their balance scales to help determine carat weight. Diamonds are weighed in carats and in points (1 carat = 200 milligrams and 1 point = 0.01 carat). Carat weight measures how much a diamond weighs. - Clarity: Richard Liddicoat established the GIA Clarity Scale resulting in several grades from FL-to-I. They are: Flawless (FL) = no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification. Internally Flawless (IF) = no inclusions visible under 10x magnification. Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1, VVS2) = inclusions so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification. Slightly Included (SI1, SI2) = inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification. Included (I1, I2, I3) = inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification and may affect the transparency and brilliance of the diamond. To the naked eye VS1 and SI2 may look the same.
The size, position, and visibility of inclusions can have a significant impact on diamond clarity. - Cut: A properly cut diamond will appear more brilliant due to its well-cut facets and how they interact with light. Its proportions, symmetry, and polish all play a factor. Brightness refers to the internal and external white light reflected from a diamond. Fire refers to the scattering of white light into all the colors of the rainbow. Scintillation refers to the amount of sparkle a diamond produces, and the pattern of light and dark areas caused by reflections within the diamond. The grade of the cut also considers the design and craftsmanship, weight relative to the diameter, girdle thickness, the symmetry of its facet arrangement, and the quality of polish on those facets. The pavilion depth affects the light play within the diamond. The earliest form of diamond cutting is the ‘point cut’ which has eight symmetrical facets in the shape of an octahedron. The ‘table cut’ improved the ‘point cut’ by cutting off the top half to create a table. In 1919 Marcel Tolkowsky developed the ideal cut diamond proportions with the modern brilliant and ideal cuts.
- Color: Richard Liddicoat developed the now universally utilized D-to-Z color scale which is based on the absence of color and measures the degree of colorlessness by comparing the diamond to ‘master stones’ of established color value under controlled lighting and precise viewing conditions. A chemically pure diamond has no hue. Naturally colored diamonds that are not in the normal color range are called ‘fancy-color’ and are either yellow or brown with more color than a ‘Z’ master stone or are a color other than yellow or brown.
Care:
Diamonds are usually durable enough to use with an ultrasonic cleaner. If it has been treated or has many inclusions it is best to not put in an ultrasonic cleaner. It can be cleaned with a lint-free cloth, or warm water with mild soap and a soft toothbrush, or a commercial jewelry cleaning solution. Make sure to thoroughly rinse and dry your diamonds. Clean your diamond periodically.
Diamonds can be chipped by a sharp, sudden blow, especially when doing rough work so be sure to take them off.